Juneau is one of the most beautiful, exciting, curious places on earth. It lays at the base of a ring of the most perpendicular mountains I have ever seen. They rise straight up a couple of hundred yards from the main street, and just keep going on up and up, and 'way up there in the low clouds that hang over Juneau are mountain goats, roaring waterfalls, and very large, broad shouldered bears. The 13,000 or so Juneauians are unevenly divided between those who spend most of the night going in and out of the Red Dog Saloon and those few who denounce them. After the Red Dog, and Ty Tyson, the bartender, begin to taper off around 1 :30 AM, the Dreamland opens for business and roars until the last bear staggers home bleary-eyed. . .